Cetyl alcohol is a hybrid of alcohols and fatty acids or oils and . Nope, e-wax (or Polawax) is not the same thing as Cetyl Alcohol. The appearance is distinctly crystal like in the dish, and even when I scoop it out (before it starts to melt, at least). Now you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. .btms-50 in one recipe and I Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate as emulsifier in . You will however need to keep a minimum of 2% cetyl alcohol, together with 0.4% xanthan gum in your formula for stability. (You touched the scale before it was sprayed.) The size of your oil phase will also be a factor, but you havent listed that. If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. Replaces the above 2 products. Preparing lotions and body butters in an antiseptic environment is what is known as "good manufacturing practices." Here's a general formula for creating lotion: 70-80% Distilled Water. GMP is something you do because you want to make a quality product you can be proud of--proud to gift, and proud to offer for sale. According to Susan, who has worked with it as a standalone, some of the formulas Ive shared using Olivem1000, to the similar one I did on cetearyl alcohol, Green Tea Conditioning Hair & Body Butter. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. Thats pretty cool! It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply. Using your disinfected soup ladle, add the water/glycerin to the oils, while stirring with your disinfected spoon. Since I cant get any suspension bases here. I've used BTMS-25 in my recipe because it is more reasonably priced and is available in bulk (from Soaper's Choice). Aneesa. Now I want it in alll the things! Cetyl Alcohol. The reason for the choice of soft oils and additives is given below--hopefully with enough additional information to allow you to customize your product in your own way. Faithful to Nature Mango Body Butter. I have a question , do we have to measure the PH level when we making a body butter? Answer: If your recipe doesn't contain water and is just a mixture of butters and oils, you do not need a preservative. Pour into a tub-style container. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. So now let's plug that into the recipe: OILS PHASE 3% Castor Oil 4% Cocoa Butter 3% Kokum Butter 2% Shea oil (or butter) 3% BTMS 1.5% Cetyl alcohol. Add the cocoa butter. Here's what the additives I've chosen do: Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes & lotions. Yup, many times Heres one. I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Prepare a water bath: add 3cm/1" of water to a wide pan. Then place a glass (or metal) bowl on top of the saucepan. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. Weigh emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, and butters in a heatproof bowl and heat using a double boiler method until melted through. If you don't correct for water lost through evaporation, additives, fragrance, and the preservative will be present in the finished product in percentages that may be too high. Super helpful blog post, thanks! Compare their appearance, texture and skin feel after another 24-48 hours. And if its yes, what is the perfect PH level for a body butter? It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. And I now have some repeat customers who say the same. (Weighing accurately is important if you are selling.). If 1:1 is WAY too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out. beeswax helps make a good barrier cream . BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. Results can sometimes be not quite what you expected even when you use the Cheat Sheet. Cetyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol having the chemical formula CH 3 (CH 2) 15 OH while cetearyl . Now remove the pans from heat and slowly add the water and glycerin to the pan of melted oils, stirring continually. Optiphen: can only be substituted with another broad-spectrum . Once melted into concoctions it gives a beautiful, silky finish. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. I have a question about sourcing cetyl alcohol. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. i know i should bug the beauty brains about this & i promise i will if theres any there there. I was using cetyl alcohol at 3% so swapped in mango butter at 5% and reduced the water. 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. They're found in animals and plants, like . So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. It's good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils (about equal amounts of each). Since this has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear polypropylene gloves. It depends on the concentration; I find lower concentrations tend to settle out/split. I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol given it melts below 50C; have you tried making a version without the kojic? Weigh mango and cupuacu butters in a heat-resistant glass measuring cup, along with cetyl alcohol, macadamia nut oil, and tapioca starch. Gently stir the oils and waxes to combine. My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. Method: In a heat-resistant beaker, add the BTMS50. What would you suggest to replace Honeyquat? Cas Number. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. The surface is still firm, but once I press through its clear theres a harder layer on top and the underbits and soft and a bit gooey. Taken for granted until that point where it gets taken away. Excellent experiment Marie! When I began making soap, I developed recipes with highly emollient propertiestriple-butter soaps with a high superfatwith my own kids' needs in mind. One bit of valuable information the New Directions Aromatics website provides is the Absorption rates of various oils. If you work carefully, you won't need to spray the containers of oil and other ingredients. I actually dabbled in making lotions many years before I started making soap. I have found that the crystalline effect when used in higher concentrations can create pockets of oil that remain liquid, so you may not want to go for a 100% swap, but thats just a thought. Here again, if I remember right, lactic acid is commonly used for this in cosmetic preparations. Cetearyl alcohol is a chemical found in cosmetic products. I am assuming that you replaced the cetyl alcohol with an equal amount of stearic acid. If you look through this list of oils and their properties, I hope you'll be inspired to try choosing the oils that suit your needs. (The only other difference is there is a small amount of moisturizer in BTMS-50--I forget what it is.) BTMS-50 is about 50% BTMS and (I forget the exact percentage) most of the rest of it is Cetyl Alcohol. What are co-emulsifiers? The first number is always cetyl alcohol, the second is always olive oil. Add essential oils und mix. Please help ASAP my product are going bad. A creamy body butter bar I made for the last-year holiday season was to die for! Using an immersion (stick) blender, create a vortex and add the Xanthan gum. The last time a I made a batch of this body butter, I added two more ounces of glycerin, 4 ounces of Aloe Vera, and 1 1/2 more ounces of SL--which added 7 1/2 ounces of liquid to the water phase. 35-40 degrees Celsius add the preservative. For example, Honeyquat and DL-Panthenolare heat-sensitive and so must be added to the cool-down phase, but sodium lactate is water-soluble and not heat sensitive and so goes into the water phase. I will do as you suggested. Basically I guess I'm saying I don't know if stearic acid is the culprit. Its a total game changer! soft butters work best but you can also use any vegetable butter (Shea Butter . Remove from heat and let cool a bit, then add in jojoba, babassu and buriti oils and mix. I cant eat it or apply it topically. Coconut Massage Butter. I prefer cetyl for glide, but regularly use stearic for a little more thickness and the lovely white color. love your recipes and your ideas, your book and also your dog, she is sooo sweet! I love the skin feel of the two blended! Believe it or not, this simplifies things, since you don't have to wonder which ingredient is added to what, and when. When considering ratios, do we take all these other oil phase liquids into consideration? These were simple preparations of my own invention, which were just oil-and-water emulsions, using liquid lecithin as the emulsifier. As I already mentioned lotions and body butters are germ-magnets, in which it is essential to include a preservative. 100g Mango Butter; 37.5g Cocoa Butter; 12.5g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down 1. DIY 'Body Shop' Body Butter. Im in the Caribbean so it gets pretty hot. Thank you Marie for such great information. Beeswax - 2%. Cetyl alcohol = thickener. Faux waxes (waxes that are actually hydrogenated vegetable oilscheck the INCI!) Emulsifying wax can form extremely stable w/o or o/w emulsions. thanks. If your recipe is heavy on slow-absorbing oils, it will feel greasy. No tack, fantastic slip. Required fields are marked *. Add the berry wax. Spray your gloves and rub your hands together. The main difference between the two is that BTMS-50 contains cetyl alcohol. Haircare Skincare Formulas. I did an experiment with cetyl alcohol tonight. I see cetearyl alcohol sometimes available. The human body readily absorbs DL-Panthenol through the skin and it rapidly converts D-Panthenol to Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5), a natural constituent of healthy hair and a substance present in all living cells. 4 min read. Cetyl Alcohol is a thickener. In one of my earlier blogs, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter from a combination of oils and butter. Leave both butters for some 12-24 hours in the fridge. 1% Preservative. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first, Raspberry Mint No-Melt Summer Body Butter, Rose & Tea Ultra-Light Conditioning Hair Balm, Strawberry Kiwi Conditioning Hair Treatment, Passionfruit Coconut Conditioning Body Lotion + Hair Conditioner, Passionfruit Coconut Matte Velvet Moisturizer, Green Tea Conditioning Hair & Body Butter. Linda Crampton from British Columbia, Canada on June 21, 2017: You've shared a wealth of information in this article! How do you think BTMS-50 would work to sub for the 25? I love these posts! Shown below is the famous lotion and body butter cheat sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care products. How do you accomplish this? Yay! Thats the only ingredient in that list I havent worked with, so that is where I would start in narrowing down the issue. And I believe the ceytl alcohol is the reason for my love of this lotion too! Step 1 - Make Scrub Base. Type of ingredient: Emulsifier Main benefits: Stabilizes products, prevents separation, and thickens. Combine cocoa butter, mango butter, cetyl alcohol (or additional mango butter) , avocado oil and emulsifying wax in the bowl of a stand mixer or other heatproof bowl. Lotions aside, after this experiment and the project thatll be out on the 29th of this month, Im really excited about the 100% oil based applications of cetyl alcohol. Typically any sort of tiny dot or lump in a concoction is a solid butter going grainy, BUT there are no solid butters in that lotion AND Ive never had that happen in a lotionjust 100% anhydrous products. Place the cup into the water and let the ingredients melt (15-20 min) It's a good idea to have some system for dating your batch. I just added 3 percent to my lotion bar recipe and I have to say it is amazing!! . Then slowly incorporate your water ingredients into the oil ingredients while stirring continuously. One of them is almost symptom-free during the summer, but when winter sets in, her legs, in particular, are so itchy that she often scratches them raw. It would be nice to feel silky but still have that beeswax protection. 8-23% Oils and Butters. In a different heat-resistant beaker, add the distilled water. In any event this mixture is still lovelyits even a bit oil-gel like. I also have never worked with Ectoin (or even heard of it), so thats another variable I cant really comment on. Answer: I would strongly discourage using milk in this recipe, as it would be almost impossible to preserve. Using homemade soap, which is much less harsh than commercial "detergent bars," helped somewhat. (Spray your gloves again.) You may also need to cut the BTMS amount in half. (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). Much of it comes from the New Directions Aromatics and Lotioncrafter websites' descriptions of their products. I use 5% beeswax in my emulsifying sugar scrubs and I dont like the waxy feel on my skin after using it. What I did was just increase the amount some. I agree with Belinda these experiments really help us understand the products we are using better. The slip and absorption speed are starting to be a lot more olive oil-like rather than cetyl alcohol like, meaning the mixture is starting to absorb faster with less of a silky/powdery finish. Dec 30, 2010. CA also has such a low melting point (49C) that it seems unlikely you wouldnt have melted it properly, otherwise your e-wax likely wouldnt have melted either. Thanks so much for this Marie! This is an awesome collection of information with a done for me recipe. Happy making . Hey! (You touched the pans before they were sprayed.) Happy to help I definitely learn a lot when I do these, too! 3. This is the first one where I can get a bit of surface melt from running my finger across the surface of it, though, which is neat. Uploaded by: hungjek on 12/28/2022 Ingredients overview Once mixture has cooled to 40 C, add in your vitamin e oil, and mango fragrance oil and mix well. Thank you Marie! Click here to learn how! To make a lotion thinner, deduct 1-2% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid. If your containers were from a good source they should be clean when you get them, so I doubt that is it. I tried swaping out the cetyl alcohol for mango butter in one of my lotion recipes and good lord! Thank you very much! Emulsifiers are products that allow oil and water to mix into a stable emulsion. D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. Safety Information. Combine and heat Phase B ingredients to 176F and remove from heat. Her recipes for body "milk" and moisturizing "milk" cleanser contain to milk whatsoever. You will also need to heat and hold a saucepan of plain distilled water. The use of emulsifying wax will do just that - bind your oils and water together on a molecular level with the end result becoming lotion or cream. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. OOooh, SO COOL! It offers the most wonderful slip and finish, even in high concentrationsits the complete opposite of wax in that regard, Its quite a powerful thickener, though definitely not as strong as the waxes; Im ok with that as its still nice in high concentrations, so I can use lots of it and get the same level of thickening/hardening that Id get from wax without the awful texture side effects, Itll create oil-gel-ish concoctions at 1:3+. Its fantastic. I would guess that the shelf-life is 6-12 months. I have a better understanding of cetyl alcohol now. Cetearyl alcohol comes as white pellets, much like emulsifying wax and other fatty alcohols and acids, so make sure you're keeping your lids and labels straight! Cetearyl alcohol pops up in this formulation as an emollient and thickener, paired with stearic acid. Please post any observations here that youve had regarding this matter, if any..b/c im just so curious if that entire lb of c.a.s worth of lotions etc were just crap b/c they were crap, as vs. that specific variety being some waxy form of c.a.? 4. Depending on the formulation it can be a lot more complex than that, especially if its an emulsion and different phase sizes and emulsifier types are also at play.
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